Treasures of the Pridi Banomyong Library Rare Book Room, Thammasat University: A Norwegian Account of Travel to Northern Siam

The Pridi Banomyong Library Rare Book Room, Thammasat University, Tha Prachan campus, owns a number of rare and useful items of potential interest to students and researchers.

Among them is the book Temples and Elephants: The Narrative of a Journey of Exploration Through Upper Siam and Lao (1884) by Carl Bock, a Norwegian government official, naturalist and explorer who travelled in Southeast Asia between 1878 to 1882.

The TU Library collection also includes circulating copies of the book in English and in German translation.

The book has also been translated into Norwegian, French and Thai and republished several times, most recently in Nonthaburi in 2019.

Bock was born in Copenhagen, Denmark when his parents were traveling on business.

He obtained private funding for a journey of discovery to Sumatra and Borneo from 1878 to 1879 under authority of Johan Wilhelm van Lansberge, Governor-general of the Dutch East Indies.

With the support of King Chulalongkorn (King Rama V), Bock traveled in 1881 around the interior of Siam and Laos on a mission to collect botanical and zoological specimens.

A blog on the website of the British Library website notes that Bock also collected artefacts, such as palm leaf manuscripts:

With the permission and support of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), Bock travelled on a steamer up the Chao Phraya river, then continued on smaller boats on the Ping river to Chiang Mai, and finally by boat and elephant further north to Chiang Rai and Chiang Saen on the Mekong. He had to promise the king to refrain from any political allusions and was accompanied by Siamese soldiers. In the northern regions he passed through Tak, Lamphun, Lakhon, and Fang. Bock met Lao- and Shan-speaking people in the larger settlements along the rivers and was closely observed, and sometimes delayed, by local rulers.

He noted that from Tak northwards it became increasingly difficult to move around and to purchase objects because Siamese money was not recognised, nor were the visa and letters issued by the Siamese government and the king. He concluded that the border between Siam and the polities of Lao-speaking people was running near Tak by the River Ping.

During the expedition Bock acquired – normally by way of negotiations and purchase using Siamese Baht and Rupees of British Burma – objects of everyday use like textiles, hats, baskets, Bencharong porcelain, silverware, lacquerware, amulets, jewellery, small Buddha and Bodhisatta images, musical instruments, knives, daggers, opium weights, traditional medicines, an ivory seal, palm leaf manuscripts etc.

Nearly 400 objects from Bock’s collection – including objects from Indonesia – are kept in the British Museum.

Three palm leaf manuscripts that were originally part of Bock’s collection at the British Museum were transferred to the British Library in or shortly after 1973. All three are incised in Dhamma (or Tham) script, seen in the image above, which was used in the historical kingdoms of Lanna (northern Thailand) and Lan Sang (Laos and north-eastern Thailand).

They are not by the same scribe since the writing styles differ, and there are also some physical differences. Or 2629 consists of eleven palm leaf bundles with gilt and red lacquered edges. They contain a variety of Buddhists texts, mainly in Pali language, including one chapter from the Vessantara Jataka.

One manuscript that stands out in terms of binding methods is a palm leaf manuscript (Or 2630) consisting of nine bundles that are not bound with a cord, which is usually the case with palm leaf manuscripts in the Thai and Lao traditions, but stacked together using two wooden sticks (shown above).

This method is well known in the Burmese manuscript tradition. However, the bundles probably were originally bound with a white-and-red cotton cord with human hair woven in, which was removed and is now kept alongside the manuscript. The edges of the palm leaves are covered with gold and black lacquer.

Each bundle contains a chapter from the Mahosadha Jataka in Dhamma script, together with a colophon mentioning 1842 as the year of its creation.

The third manuscript (Or 2631, shown below) consists of palm leaves with gilt and red lacquered edges and wooden covers. The content, six chapters of the Vidhura Jataka (partially fragmented), is written neatly in Dhamma script, in a cursive calligraphy-like style.

The leaves are held together with a black cord, however, this cord was inserted later as it is of a more recent make. Originally, the six chapters may have been bound in six separate bundles. Three of the six chapters mention 1860 as the year of creation. […]

We have no certainty as to where and how Bock acquired the manuscripts, but he reported that in Lakhon he was shown the temple library on stilts at Wat Luang:

“Passing through a trap-door in this upper floor – the door is always religiously bolted against intruders – we enter a room containing a number of large chests, coloured red or black and decorated with figures or scroll-work in gold-leaf, in which the sacred palm leaf MSS are kept. Each volume is carefully wrapped in a gay-coloured cloth, and the chests are kept closely locked.”

Apart from natural specimens, cultural artefacts and information about the peoples of northern Thailand, Bock reportedly brought back a young girl named Krao who was born with hypertrichosis [excessive hair growth].

Although there is no mention in Bock’s publications of Krao or of one Professor George G. Shelly who had apparently accompanied Bock on his expedition, newspaper articles and numerous advertisements featuring Krao were published upon their return to Europe.

They believed that in Krao they had found Darwin’s “missing link between man and ape”, and she was exhibited in Farini’s “wonder shows” in London and New York.

It soon became very clear that Krao, who after only a few months had learned to speak some English and German, had acquired basic reading and writing skills, and was able to entertain large crowds of people with wit and humour, was more human than those who had taken her from her family and her world.

Later she had a successful career in the show business and toured the US and Europe until her death from influenza in 1926.

Throughout her life Krao, who according to some early accounts was  born in Laos, then a province in the northern Rattanakosin Kingdom, was falsely advertised as a primitive human and billed as the missing link between humans and apes.

Supposedly in 1881, Krao and her parents were captured during an expedition conducted by Carl Bock to what is now northern Thailand and Laos.

(All images courtesy of Wikimedia Commons)